![]() Not that any of this is fatal to your process tools like LRTimelapse will do a good job of smoothing out the flicker. ![]() The opening-and-closing action of your lens's aperture has a lot more shot-to-shot variability than a EF-S mount version of that same lens mounted on a Canon body. But the aperture on your Tokina 11–20mm is actuated by a mechanical spring-loaded linkage to physically open the aperture. This includes pretty much all Nikon bodies older than 10 years, and all more recent Nikon DSLRs with most 3rd party lenses, and any Nikon non-E lens (which is still most of their lenses).įor instance, your Nikon D7500 is capable of controlling an electronic-aperture F-mount lens (Nikon's own electronic aperture lens have an "E" suffix, such as the AF-S Nikkor 28mm f/1.4E ED). The glaring exception is Nikon F-mount cameras with non-E lenses. Once you actually take a shot, the aperture is closed to the desired size, and the shutter is then actuated.įor most modern camera brands, the aperture is electronically controlled. This is to get as much light as possible through the lens, in order to help the autofocus and metering system. Before the camera takes a photo, its aperture is fully wide-open, regardless of the aperture you have set. The primary reason for this is because the aperture cycles between fully opened and closed (to the desired set point) for each shot. However, even with a bramping intervalometer, there will be some unavoidable shot-to-shot variability or flicker, even if lighting is constant. A bramping intervalometer not only controls the time between exposures, but it also controls the duration of each shutter actuation, to slowly ramp up or down the exposure time to account for anticipated changes in lighting conditions (such as increasing/decreasing sunlight at dawn or dusk). Hope this helps anyone else who might be trying the same thing.įor timelapse sequences at twilight, you will get best results by using a bramping intervalometer ("bramping" = bulb ramping). So, my settings for this phase were 20s F/2.8 2000 ISO. I checked PhotoPills and it told me not to go above ~20s exposure. I first continued to lower shutter speed until I got to about 10s, then adjusted to F2.8, then continued adjusting started raising ISO to about 1600, and then did finally adjusted for phase 3.įor starlight exposure, I did not want to get star trails. Here I tried moving from 0EV to -1EV so as to show the sun setting and the sky getting darker. You want to keep it as smooth as possible between phase 1 exposure and phase 3 exposure, which I will talk about later. While the sun is settings on the camera I used moved between 1/8000s F4 100 ISO down to 1/500s F4 500s. Phase three is when the sky is completely dark. The second is twilight between the time the sun disappears and total darkness (this usually takes about an hour). There are basically 3 periods in the sunset to stars sequence. I used a Nikon D7500 with a Tokina 11-20mm F/2.8 and a Vello Shutterboss. The lens fogged up (which you can see at the end of the sequence).Ī quick note about my equipment.I took too few pictures (1 every 2m, it should have been at least 1 every 30s or 15s, I think).I miscalculated and the moon rose out of frame. ![]() I was able to get a reasonable sunset to milky way timelapse (see here for results)Īs I mentioned, I made several mistakes. I made several mistakes but also learned some valuable lessons (for me) and I wanted to share them. My second question is how to properly shift from sunset to stars to moon settings properly without creating a jittery timelapse (I use LRTimelapse for editing, btw).Īfter asking this question, I went out to do the shoot. My first question is what are common settings for photographing stars with a 15% moon.
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